Typically these have an output range from around 1v to around 4v. Throttle on just about any bldc ebike controller uses an analog output hall sensor.
#XLD BRAIN POWER MOTOR CONTROLLER MANUAL HOW TO#
I would be so happy to get an Instruction on how to programme the controller, in order for it to run without the hall sensor. I hope someone has experiences with the controller I got. I have read about other controllers, that run fine without hall sensors, however the bike doesn't run with the controller installed now. I need to know how to “programme” the controller to make the bike run without hall sensor. The was no instruction in the package I recieved from them, and they are not replying to my messages. I Recently bought the XLD Brainpower motor controller XunLiDa - with control panel from. So far, the motor I'm playing with sounds exactly the same as it did with the older model Infineon job that was previously on there.
I'm dubious about the "sine wave" output of this thing.
#XLD BRAIN POWER MOTOR CONTROLLER MANUAL FULL#
There are two connectors for an alarm function - which I have NO idea about.Īlarm power (red and black) goes to pads marked "PS+" and "GND".Īlarm signal is three wires - Grey goes to "A3", white goes to "W", and orange just brings back out full battery voltage (it's directly connected to the orange "ignition" wire).ĭunno if any of this is useful, but its the first time I've had my mitts on one of these "X806M" based controllers. I have no idea how I'd use this, though driving a regular analogue panel meter could be fun. What's weird is that it hangs out of the controller, unprotected and uninsulated, but ramps up as high as 18V when the bike is at full throttle on a 39V pack. The faster you go, the more voltage you read on this line. It seems analogue (though probably just buffered PWM). The "cruise function" (blue and black, going to "Q" and "GND", respectively) holds your current speed when shorted. The "reverse function" (brown and black, going "DC" and "GND", respectively) reverses the motor when shorted. Short black to white and you get full speed. Short black to grey, and speed is reduced to "low". Left open, the motor runs at its "medium" speed. Black goes to "GND", grey to "K1", and white to "K2". The "gear switch" is the 3-speed control. Red goes to "+4.3V", black to "GND", and white to "SD" - the latter being the actual throttle signal. The throttle ("handle accelerator", as diagrammed) is red, white, and black. When shorted, this switches off motor power and activates EBS. The low "low potential" brake (the one most of us actually use) is a black and white, going to "GND" and "SL", respectively. It goes to "SH" on the PCB and has the same effect as shorting the low potential brake. You'd connect this to the same 12V signal that drives the bike's tail light. The "high potential brake" (it's purple) is an input signal that would be used if this controller were used on a scooter. These are connected to pads labelled "DS" and "X" on the PCB The EBS brake wires are both grey and, when jumpered together, turn on the braking (or regen, if true) capability - provided the LVC and power source are compatible. These are the red, yellow, green, white, and black hall wires, respectively. There's a group of pads on the PCB - "5V", "U", "V", "W", and "GND" all together. Phase and hall wires are standard, as well. The heavy red and black are your main battery power, and the orange wire is the "ignition" which provides battery power to the actual controller logic. The "power and electric lock" function is straightforward. I've mapped out where all of the coloured wires go, and what the do (though I have no idea how the "alarm" feature is used), so FWIW - this is the diagram: Anyways, I thought I toss this out there - the markings (and chip used) on this board seem to be very similar to the board posted earlier in the thread.
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